Yamchun, Tajikistan

Set off after a restless night up and down to the toilet and some took some loperamide. Most of the water in the home stays comes straight from the river but anything can cause an upset gut. Some of the cooking uses a lot of oil and my gut doesn't like that either.















Turat drove us up above the town to the giant sandhill in the middle of the Langar where John and Mark headed off to look at the petroglyphs. They found the trail difficult to follow through the cemetery and it was difficult to work out which were petroglyphs and which were modern grafitti. On the way down John slipped and skinned his arm so I had to clean him up and patch him up. Mark lost John so was a bit anxious when he came down as he had been looking for him. It was a pretty hot morning in the 30's so on the rocks would have been even hotter.


I sat in the car with Turat and some of the local children came by and stopped and said hello and stared.


Views to the peaks in the Hindu Kush


Fields of wheat. .















We tried to buy bread and water in the village of Zong but there was no fresh bread and the only bottled water contained gas which was not so nice when you are thirsty. We had bought 10 litres of water at the start of the trip but Turat's wooden tool box managed to jump up and pop our last five litre bottle drenching Mark's pack. Turat chatted to an old man and he gave us a huge round of home made bread.

Drove onto Yamchun then zigzagged up to the 12th century Zulkhomar fort and had a picnic nearby.


Drove up past a very smart looking sanatorium from the Soviet era and checked into a hotel near the Bibi Fatima Hot Springs. The hotel owner is a doctor and make me a heated electrolyte drink of water sugar and salt and instructed me to drink 500mls in one minute. I did  my best but it was yuk. All I wanted to do was sleep so she kicked a guest out of a room and made it up for us.

My bed of roses

The bed was an old spring base from an old Soviet hospital but I was so tired that I managed to sleep while John and Mark went to the pools. John couldn't swim with his bandaged wounds so left it to Mark. One hour the women bathe and then the next hour is for the men.



For dinner the doctor had made a beautiful vegetable dish with stuffed peppers and rice. I managed to eat some of that and she defrosted some smelly cow yoghurt which I also tried my best to get down to restore my gut bacteria. For breakfast we had semolina porridge and she insisted I have more yoghurt. 

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